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prE-pistles #1 - #17 by Davin de Kergommeaux
Covering: 1999 - 2001

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Subject: Your Malt Madness site is great!
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999

Johannes,

Great site. You must not have been keeping notes when you tried Mortlach (it's greyed out).  It's not that common here in Ottawa, but my wife bought me a Mortlach 9 year old Signatory bottle that ranks right up there (and unfortunately is now empty).  I've heard it described as tasting like a bagpipe bladder.  Mmmm. I'm drinking daily now, on doctor's orders.  Guess I know why my doc is always so busy.  If only I could figure out a way for my health insurance to pay for it.  Keep up the site,  It's fun and informative.
Davin

(Reply by Johannes: A Bagpipe bladder??? Hmmmm. I wish I had a doctor like yours.)

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Subject:  Bagpipe Bladder & Chocolate
Date:  Tue, 05 Jan 1999

Hi Johannes,

Thanks for the reply. My name is French (Breton), but I'm an anglophone.  The bagpipe bladder reference comes from a book by Bernard Poirier called Whisky With Dinner. He believes that with the assortment of single malts available, there is really no reason to drink wine before, with or after dinner.  He also recommends single malts for cooking and goes on to match up the various brands with assorted meals. Perhaps you know this already. (Reply by Johannes: I don't like wine myself - except port & "dessert wines" - so I think whisky with dinner instead of wine is an excellent idea.)

Scotch whisky has been my preferred drink for many years now, but I only recently started paying atttention to the flavours.  Drank mostly Glenfiddich and Glenlivits, (and Black Label) though I do have a Glenmorangie 10 year old bottle in the basement, but I really don't remember it.  The Mortlach 9 year old Signatory was the source of my amazing discovery.  Bernard Porier also describes it as "musty". You found it a bit too sherried, and that was more my impression of Glemorangie Port Wood Finish, but as I mentioned, my taste buds are far from educated.  Something I really have enjoyed though is to follow the Glenmorangie Port with a Talisker.  Wow does the iodine hit you!! (Reply by Johannes: Talisker and Glenmorangie Port sounds like a great combination. If you like the iodine in Talisker you should try Laphroaig 10 - one of the most extreme malts I know.)

I have read on a few web sites about eating chocolate with single malts. Have you tried this? (Reply by Johannes: No - And I'm not going to!  I like to keep my experiences pure. This means no chocolate! I've never tried it, but the taste of chocolate is so overpowering that I can hardly believe it would improve the tasting experience. If I do need to eat in between, I generally use plain white bread.)

I'll keep watching your page for updates.
All the best,
Davin

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Subject:  More ramblings
Date:  Thu, 14 Jan 1999

Hi Johannes,

I'm not a wine drinker either, although it is almost 10 years since I visited family in Paris and was served a very unusual wine at dinner.  It was thin, watery, but seemed to have a lot of sediment in it.  I quite enjoyed it and - surprise - no headache.  In school we had a weekly competition (trivia etc.) with the loser buying a bottle of wine to drink Friday afternoons in the lab.  This one joker brought in a bottle of Retsina, which I found quite pleasant in a sort of turpentinish way.  My dad is a painter so I grew up smelling turpentine.  Maybe it was the association.  In any case it's been years now since I had wine and why would I start again having discoverd sms? Same with coffee.  I go for the really strong flavoured stuff like "French Roast".  All this to say I do seem to prefer strong flavours.  Next bottle will be Laphroig as you so kindly recommended.

As for the chocolate, I have read about this in a few web sites. I think the idea is to use the whiskey to make the chocolate penetrate your sinuses and give you a head explosion (rush) of chocolate.  Sounds orgiastic, but so is a good Scotch alone. Have you encountered Torbjorn Olausson in your surfing?  He has quite a few comments on the www.scotch.com website. Seems knowledgable and recommends the chocolate business. Any way I'll give it a try some day and let you know. I agree with you though, a good Scotch hardly needs a chocolate enhancement.
Anyway, live and learn.

All the best,

Davin

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Subject:  You were right!
Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999

Johannes,

Why didn't I listen to you?
I just killed a large glass of Glenmorangie Port Wood by eating chocolate with it.  Actually, I enjoyed the first few sips virgin, but once the chocolate was introduced the whisky became bitter.  I didn't get the chocolate head rush, although the Glenmorangie began to taste decidedly more of alcohol.  Eventually I rinsed my mouth out with water after which the whisky became very salty.  Continued to drink Glenmorangie PW until the flavour returned to normal, then treated myself to a Talisker explosion.

You recommended the Laphroaig 10 to me. Have you tried the 15? In the part of Canada where I live, all liquor is sold through a government owned retailer.  Unexpectedly, they have excellent service and knowledgable staff.  In any case they told me they have the Laphroig 15 on order for delivery in the next week or so. Should I wait for it or just go for the 10? (Reply by Johannes: Try both! I haven't tried the Laphroaig 15 yet, so I can't say much about it. But given the character of the 10, I certainly think another 5 years in wood would be good for it's balance. I expect a more harmonious result, perhaps a bit more like a Lagavulin or Ardbeg. Give it a chance, I'd say...)

You rate the Talisker 18 cask strength as a potential number 2 on your list (making Talisker 10 number 3?). In taste, how does it compare with the Talisker 10 which I love so dearly? (Reply by Johannes: The 18 C/S has the power of the 10 combined with an almost Macallan-like complexity and balance. I love the 10 for it's individuality and character, but when an island whisky like Talisker or Lagavulin spend some more time in the barrels the seaweed, smoke and peat are joined with sweeter, more woody tones. This generally makes for a better balanced and harmonious malt. Most island whiskies I've tasted so far were at their best at 16 - 18 years. The few older ones I've tasted had gotten too bitter and woody for my tastes. Sadly, I haven't been able to find a full bottle yet.)

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prE-pistle #1:  Laphroaig Mmmm...
Date:  Sat, 23 Jan 1999

Hi Johannes,

Thanks for your suggestion to try Laphroaig 10. Wow, it is 'extreme'.  I do enjoy the strong iodine, but find this one a bit more like medicine than Talisker.  I tried to get the 15 year old Laphroig as I mentioned before, but had to settle for the 10.  The clerk at the liquor store told me people were lined up when the 15 was released, and it all sold within minutes.  I'll be passing through several duty frees in the next month and a half, and will look for the 15 or the 10 cask strength there.

I tried following the Laphroig with a Talisker 10 and found it tasted like water after the Laphroig.  So much to learn.  Obviously order of sampling is important.  The liquor clerk told me another uncommon scotch that sells out very quickly when they get it, is Te Bheag, a Gaelic blend.  Apparantly it's based on Talisker.  It's not on your list, so I guess you have tried less that 700ml of it.  Do you know it? (Reply by Johannes: It's on my 'middle shelf' right now - that means not officially rated yet. It's a blend, so it won't show up in the "official" ratings on my site. But I'll publish the results in the Tastings" section of my site in a while. It should be interesting, because it's the only blend from skye.)

Found a magazine today called Whisky.  It's the first issue; edited by the likes of Michael Jackson, Charles MacLean and Jim Murray.  The cover story is about a soccer player (Rob Wainwright) whose favourite drink is Wild Grouse. Someone should direct him to your page! Anyway Johannes, I thought I should thank you again for your direction and fill you in on my incursion into Laphroig territory.  I'll continue to update you on my progress.  Any more suggestions? (Reply by Johannes: As far as suggestions go: laphroaig is about as extreme as you can get. A malt that's just as powerful, but with a lot more balance, is Ardbeg. The 17 yrs. is absolutelu wonderful. Or try the Talisker 18 yrs. Cask Strength.)

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prE-pistle #2:  Glasses & Stuff
Date:  Thu, 11 Feb 1999

Hi Johannes,
I'm still here.  Have been experimenting lately with glasses.  I tried a brandy snifter, then settled on wine tasting glasses which really did help focus the taste. Then about a week ago my wife came home with a glass that was much like the wine taster, but with the lip curved out.  This is great as it gives the same focussed flavour, but lets the whisky flow easily onto your tongue.
(Reply by Johannes: The "wine glass with the lip curved out" is an "official" malt tasting glass. It's the best glass for tasting and nosing I've found so far, although a large enough cognac snifter (300 ML or more) works just as well for me. Wine or port glasses hide too much of the aroma.)

I think I am graduating from the first level of my whisky education.  I just posted a note on whiskyweb (http://www.whiskyweb.com/howff/) advising someone else on tasting whisky. That's why I am writing you, as the first thing I told him was to check out your Malt Madness site.  Hope you don't mind.  I still visit your site regularly for updates. (I also mentioned you site in a letter to Whisky Magazine.)  My current whisky is Springbank 12 year old.  Nice bottle!!  Have purchased refills of Talisker and Glenmorangie 10 year old and will probably do the same when my Laphroig is finished.  Also bought the Te Bheag but haven't tried it yet.  Let me know when you've tasted yours so we can compare notes. I travel from time to time with my job and will be in Washington (then South America) in a few weeks so am hoping to get some more exotic malts at the duty free shops. Anyway, thanks again for speeding up my education.  I'll keep you posted on my progress.

(Reply by Johannes: Glad you're promoting my site. The more visitors the merrier.

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prE-pistle #3:  My latest adventures and queries.
Date:  Mon, 15 Mar 1999

I had a great experience a few weeks back in progressive drinking. It began with a couple of glasses of  Highland Park 12 year old followed by a Glenmorangie 10, then a Glenmorangie Port Wood, each one benefiting from the taste of its predecessor. Then I switched to Te Bheag (just loved it), then on to Talisker and finished off the evening with Laphroig 10 year old. What a crescendo!!  The Te Bheag was so delicious, I went straight to it the next evening, but somehow it just wasn't the same without the build up.

My recent trip was a bit disappointing Scotch-wise.  Now I can appreciate Canadian Scotch prices and availability.  In Canada most Scotches are less expensive than the duty free prices in USA or Barbados.  In Guyana, bar price for the only single malt, Tormore 10 year old, was $16.50 US while Johnny Walker Blue was $22.00 and both had been sitting in the sun for who knows how long.  In Canada a whole bottle of JW blue costs only $199.00 Canadian or about $134.00 US, compared to the $200.00  you list it as in Amsterdam.  On the other hand, a bottle of rum could be had for just over $4.00.  So, I tried most of the Guyanese and Barbadan rums.  Now I know why I like Scotch.
Even a 15 year old Demerrara rum, said to be equivalent to cognac, tasted like coca cola. There was just no complexity to the nose or taste at all. Normally I travel about twice a year with my job, but this year it looks like more than that as I am leaving again on Friday for a tour of central Europe. I'll be missing Amsterdam, unfortunately, or I'd recruit you for a tutoured tasting session.  I hope to come back with some bottles that are unavailable here in Canada.
(Reply by Johannes: Wow - That's a LOT of money for the Tormore 10 - a mediocre malt at best. I too have tried some "farmer" rums after enthousiastic comments from some people with otherwise noteworthy opinions, but I haven't found anything worthwile yet.)

My current whisky is Macallan 12 year old which you rate only one point lower than the 18 year old.  That's good information as the price differential is huge.  Have you tried the Glenmorangie 18 year old?  It has just become available here, and I expect will sell out soon.  It is just a dollar shy of being twice the price of the 10 year old.  Also, Balblair, Glenburgie and Glentauchers are all currently on sale at about 40% off.  I think they are dumping their stock and these whiskies will soon be unavailable in Canada.  These are not common names; have you tried any of them? Anyhow, I do go on.  Really I just wanted to keep in touch and encourage you to keep working on your site.

(Reply by Johannes: On the Macallan: I do think the price difference between 12 and 18 is way too big, but you should really try the 18 some time. Too expensive for large quantity consumption, but something very different. Or try the Mac 10 yrs. cask Strength - a lot like the 18 in character, but more reasonably priced. It's pretty hard to find, but certainly worth the effort. I haven't tasted the 'Morangie 18 "by the bottle" yet, but you'll find a report on a tasting session with 5 different Glenmorangies on my site. I haven't tried any of the 3 other malts you mentioned yet.

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prE-pistle #4:  Duty Free / Dallas Dhu
Date:  Sun, 04 Apr 1999

Hi Johannes,

I did have some new whisky experiences to add to my knowledge. For a start I have confirmed my opinion that duty free does not mean less expensive.  With a few notable exceptions I found duty free prices in Europe about 20% higher that full retail here in Ottawa.  But the selection was unparalleled. After much heart-wrenching turmoil, I bought two bottles of Dallas Dhu. The first, a Signatory 19 years bottling, the second a Rare Malts Selections 21 year old cask strength from  (not duty free).  I was told these are very difficult to find now, but excellent quality so I took a chance.  Now what do I do?  Should I just open them up and start enjoying them, or are these really worth saving for a special occasion?  What do you think?

I was delighted to see that you have added a new tasting session to your Malt Madness pages.  I also checked out your new dynamic prototype pages which are great.  Honestly though, I like what you have already, and being the selfish guy that I am, would rather see you put your time into adding content rather than rebuilding something that is already great.  But... I'll stick with you however it evolves.

Thanks for directing me to your Glenmorangie tasting session.  I've read all your tasting notes, but had forgotten this page.  I had the opportunity to try the Madeira, Sherry and Port Wood versions while away, and agree that the Madeira is very unique.  I still like the 10 year old best, but enjoy them all.

I was working with a Scotsman on this trip, and he introduced me to Famous Grouse (which he claimed was named after his mother-in-law).  I learned to like it rather quickly. The free whisky flowed quickly at the duty frees in Heathrow, so quickly I hardly had time to enjoy the finish.  I tried the Distiller's Editions of Cragganmore, Dalwhinnie and Glenkinchie, which were all wonderful. The Cragganmore especially was excellent, but I'll buy it here in Ottawa and save a good 30% over duty free prices.

All the best,
Davin

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prE-pistle #5:  Tasting Report Lagavulin 1979
Date:  Thu, 01 Jul 1999

Hi Johannes,

Got in about midnight last night. (Note by Johannes: Davin came over for a tasting session a few days ago - see Log Entry #25.) Thanks very much for your kind hospitality while I was in Amsterdam.  I went back to your Whisky bar and tried Dallas Dhu 16 yo  (disappointingly pleasant/easy) and Ardbeg 17 yo which did not come close to the Ardbeg 17 you gave me.  (Note by Johannes: The secret of the difference between the Ardbeg's could be the time in the bottle. I have noticed that most Ardbegs tend to improve in the months after opening, and my bottle was about 6 months old. So I should say, take your time with your Ardbeg 17.)  Maybe it was the company, maybe the glass, but I did buy a 70 cl Ardbeg and three miniatures to bring home. I checked out your tasting- looks like you feel the same about the Lagavulin DE as I do about the Talisker. Great, but not as great as the original.  The Lagavulin I have is the 1980, while in Amsterdam it's 1979, but I imagine the taste is pretty similar.

Compared to Canada the shop in Utrecht (Note by Johannes: Davin is talking about the liquor store on Utrecht Central Station - I think it's called Traverse - Good selection and nice offers every once in a while) was amazing, so I absolutely have to get to your shops in Amsterdam.  I found the whisky much better displayed than in Oddbins or Cadenhead's in London.  It was also the first time I had seen Signatory miniatures. In any case, thanks again. Take care,  Davin

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Subject:  Off The Booze
Date:  Sun, 08 Aug 1999

Hi Johannes,

I have also been off the booze pretty much since I got back due to conflicting medication. Will be back at it in a week or so!  I managed to find 2 bottles of Lagavulin 1979 at a small liquor outlet so when I'm up and at it, I'll compare with the 1980 and let you know.  Have found a small group of Balvenie fans here ion Ottawa and will go tasting with them in a few weeks - my first Balvenies.

I read in Whisky Magazine about a bar in Amsterdam called De Still.
Have you tried it?  They highly recommend it.

Take care,  Davin

Reply by Johannes: At this moment I'm having an unofficial tasting session with (of course) the wonderful Lagavulin 1979 Ximenez... I've had three tastings now, and it should rate around 90 - 91 points. De Still in Amsterdam used to be my favorite malt hang-out - untill I discovered L&B's. Regulars all have their own little malt safe there,
where they can store their favorite bottle. It's located near one of the funnest squares of Amsterdam (Spui), and a good place for a few relaxed malts.
How is your bottle of Ardbeg 17 progressing? This is one of those rare malts that seem to improve after opening. My advice: Open the Ardbeg 17 a.s.a.p - but take your time finishing the bottle. This one clearly improves after it has been openend. Try to take six months or more before you completely finish the bottle, and keep track of the changes.

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Subject:  Beta version Malt Madness in Dynamic HTML
Date:  Mon, 23 Aug 1999

Just spent 20 minutes on your site. Will give it a go again tomorrow.
The new site is great. While surfing through the links section, I wondered if you might want to add links to real live drinking places.  When I travel, I often try to use the internet to find whisky stores or whisky bars, but other than England and Scotland there isn't much available.  Why not list (and rate) the better liquor outlets and bars in your neck of the woods?  You could invite some of your fans to contribute their own favourites.  I don't think there is a non-commercial whisky site that lists places to drink or purchase malts so you could start a trend.  My favourite search engine (hotbot) gives nothing useful when I search for Malt and Amsterdam or Whisky and Amsterdam.  How about filling the void? Just a thought.

I re-read your ratings and am glad to see you rate the Macallans above Glenmorangie Port Wood.  I like both, but the Macallan wins by far and is similar enough that I won't buy the PW again. I'm also delighted that the Lagavulin 1979 has turned out to be a hit.  I still haven't tried it, but when I do, I'll compare it to the 1980 and give you the word. I haven't opened the Ardbeg yet either.  Actually I've done very little drinking since I got back.  I tried a Chivas Regal 12 yo a couple of days ago. It's a definite addition to your world's worst whiskies listing.  Started out bitter then faded into bland, alcoholic nothingness.

I joined a Malt List (http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/jhb/whisky/announce.html) last week and have two messages, one of which originated right here in Ottawa.
Things are looking up!

Reply by Johannes: About Glenmorangie Port and Macallans: I like them all a lot, but compared to the Macallans the Glenmorangie just has a little less 'depth' and harmony between the different taste components. Very nice, but it's just too darned expensive. I don't think the Chivas Regal 12 blend is too bad, but for that kind of money you can get a good quality single malt like Glen Ord 12 or Glen Moray 12. Good thinking on the "real live drinking places". I've alrady toyed with a similar idea - Tips for good whisky bars - but my personal geographic location was a problem. I'll keep working on your idea - using guest editors might just prove to be a great solution. I'll get back to you on that one.

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Subject:  Comments on the new website
Date:  Sat, 28 Aug 1999

Hi Johannes,

Just did a bit more surfing and I'm very enthusiastic about your new Malt Madness site.  I love the map.  I like a satellite photo as it shows everything, not just the "important" stuff.  I like being able to relate the areas to each other. Now I know where Speyside is in relation to the others.  Excellent work!  I look forward to more browsing. My favourite site just got better.

As for the tips for good whisky bars (and shops) your geopgraphic location could be an asset.  Who better to provide links for travellers to Amsterdam? I'm forever noting people on bulletin boards asking where to buy or drink whisky in some city or another.  Maybe if you told the local shops and bars about this you could convert mention on your site into a few free drinks.  As long as you don't go commercial and really do recommend just the best of the best.

As I continue to browse your site I'll send more comments, but so far it's better than ever. Thanks for a great site and good luck with your other projects.

Davin

Reply by Johannes: About your "Bar" idea: I could perhaps use the experiences of external "Foreign Barfly Correspondents" like yourself to cover more ground. I have e-mail contacts all over the globe, so I could invite some people who's judgment I trust to add their favorite watering holes to the list. About "Going commercial". As a matter of fact, I have been thinking of a way to incorporate some kind of advertising in the site. But I only want to do it if it doesn't interfere with the current style and structure of the site - and my very personal opinions. As a matter of fact, I get a lot of requests from whisky shops to add them to my link list, but I won't do that until I've had a chance to test them out - either by visiting the shop or buying one or more malts online.

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prE-pistle #6:  Is Lagavulin 16 quality changing?
Date:  Sun, 14 Nov 1999

Hi Johannes,

Hope you are well and well oiled.  Just surfed through your beginners' section again.  Still stuff there to learn. Had another birthday, and some new, previously unsampled malts arrived.  It's great to have someone else do the selection.  Otherwise my taste buds would never get off Islay.  Anyway I have gone surprisingly quickly through a 12 yo Tamnavulin.  Quite enjoyable - almost Cragganmorish to my palate.

I noticed that you rank Glen Ord 12 fairly high on your list.  I just discovered Glen Ord in New York a couple of weeks ago and really like it.  It was a pleasant surprise to get home and find it is the least expensive malt available at the LCBO – ($35 compared with $65 for Lagavulin 16, $45 for Laphroig 10 or Glenmorangie  10). My next venture will be into the Balvenies, so I was checking out their UK web-site and saw that you're getting even more famous.  I followed their link to your site.  May send them my own tasting notes in a few weeks.  Anyway congratulations on being recognized yet again.

About three months ago, the price of Lagavulin 16 rose from $54.00 to $65.00 Canadian.  At the same time I have heard reports that recent bottles are less extreme in flavour so as to make it more of a mainstream whisky.  Since I don't drink it regularly I thought I'd write to you, the Lag man of Amsterdam.  Have you noticed any changes in flavour?  If so I'll run out and buy a couple of older bottles from the low volume liquor stores.  Hey!  I just found an advantage to the government having the monopoly to sell liquor. They have to serve all communities, so there will be stores in the boonies, with old stock! Looking forward to more Malt Madness, and in the mean time wait for you take on recent Lagavulin 16.

All the best,

Davin

Reply by Johannes:  Yep, I'm affraid Lagavulin 16 is changing. Although it is quite natural for minor differences to appear between different batches of 'commercial' bottlings, the changes I perceived over the last 18 months (4 bottles) pointed in a specific direction - that of the 'Distiller's Edition'. The differences are small, but Lagavulin is consistently becoming 'friendlier' and 'more accessible' - more Bunnahabhain and less Laphroaig, to put it simply. It still kicks ass and it still ranks number one on my personal hitlist, but I think I prefer the uncompromising version I first tried around 9 years ago. I just hope the trend doesn't continue.

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Subject:  I'm back!
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000

Hi Johannes,

Arrived back from Rome on Wednesday night, but am in major jet-lag. I can't begin to thank you for the tasting session in Amsterdam. It was amazing and I have notes to prove it!  I'm glad it was as much fun for you as well. When I get back to normal, I'll type out my notes an send you an prE-pistle.

Wow, was I ever feeling no pain when I left your apartment, but thanks to a well trained liver I was sober in about two hours. Remarkable! I'm glad you liked the Pike Creek. Personally I like it the least of the three, preferring the Gooderham and Worts and also the strangely mossy Lot 40.  None of them, however, are in the Scotch whisky league so your score of 40 compares to my own assessment, although you will find the Gooderham and Worts much more drinkable.

Thanks once again for a very enjoyable whisky tour.

Davin

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prE-pistle #7:  Malt Madness Meeting 2
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000

Have just returned to Canada from a most enjoyable working three weeks in Europe where my exposure to unusual malts and ability to discern flavour subtleties went through logarithmic growth. It began in the Netherlands with a visit to Rob Stevens' Whiskyslijterij De Koning in Den Bosch (officially known as 's Hertogenbosch.)  With 1100 whiskies on display Rob's shop has all the elements of a living whisky museum.  This becomes especially true when you finally think you've seen everything, so he invites you back to his tasting room where the really rare stuff is kept.  Then, while you're 'nosing' samples of malted barley, he casually mentions he could double his selection if he chose to. In my home town, Ottawa, Canada, all liquors are sold through a government owned outlet called the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO).  On a really good day you may find 40 government-issue malts in stock. Dutch regulations preclude tasting during business hours, but that didn't prevent me from arriving back in Amsterdam with a serious case of Ardbeg-mouth.  And I'll never be able to say again that I've not tasted the old-style peat monsters. If you're visiting the Netherlands take the opportunity to visit Whiskyslijterij De Koning.  Den Bosch is about an hour's train ride from Central Station in Amsterdam, and well worth the 40 Guilders return fare.

Day Two ended in Amsterdam with a total annihilation of the Dutch reputation for parsimony.  But let me tell you how it began.  On a previous trip I had spent an enjoyable and educational afternoon with Johannes van den Heuvel, the creator of this web site. Johannes is an eccentric, but generous Amsterdam malt maven and he is every bit as much an original as is his site.  In any case I had arranged for another private tutoured tasting, but first Johannes took me on a walking tour of the Amsterdam tourists never see – the whisky shops. Gall and Gall near Dam Square impressed me with neither their prices nor their selection, but Whiskyslijterij De Koning is a hard act to follow.

We then wandered through seedier areas stopping here and there to peruse the stock, with Johannes feeling obliged to purchase something at every shop.  Finally we came to M. Boorsma at Ferdinand Bolstraat 112 which had an impressive array of whiskies and excellent prices.  Anyone wanting to purchase whisky in Amsterdam would be well advised to seek them out.  Anyway I picked up a Laphroaig 15 yo as my contribution to the evening and we were on our way to Johannes' place to begin the ritual. Johannes believes in what he calls head to head tastings.  Two whiskies are sampled at a time to allow for comparison.  He is also the guy who taught me to smell the empty glass after the alcohol has evaporated to get another perspective on the flavours, a process I have since found very informative.

The highlights of this session were a Longmorn Glenlivet 1963 (what Johannes calls his Craig Daniels Longmorn, named for its donor), the Laphroaig 15 yo and a 1991 Ardbeg from Signatory (which occasionally reminded me of my dog). The Longmorn was sweet but earthy with a mild honey-floral nose, immediate but fading astringency, an orchestra of complex, changing, grassy/floral flavours on the tongue and a sweet finish.  The sweetness increased with water.  The Laphroaig 15 was milder but more flavourful than the 10 yo with a sweet tobacco flavour that migrated instantly to the back of the throat. 

I made detailed tasting notes which are posted below because, most importantly, I found the confidence to share my tasting experiences with others. Johannes has posted the results of our session elsewhere on this web site.  I told a colleague who was supposed to join us at the tasting, but was unable to, that I was almost embarrassed at Johannes' generosity, so I'm also a little more embarrassed to see how much credit he has given me in his tasting report. Now this was just supposed to be a tasting session, but Johannes pours a pretty generous dram, so by the time we had finished our 14th, you can imagine my condition.  I could barely walk to the subway.  But it was then I learned the benefits of having a well-practiced liver, for full sobriety returned within a couple of hours and I learned that if I limit my intake to 14 generous drams I can avoid a hangover altogether as next morning I was up and ready to move on to London.

Below are my notes on the head to head tastings.  Be aware these were written in progressive states of inhibriation!

1a. Scapa 1989 Ultimate 8yo 43%
Strong, spicy - feels stronger than 43%, floral/malty?
Floral nose, but not too strong. With water, burns a lot, very peppery; burn of cinnamon, with no cinnamon flavour, powerful.

1b. Glen Rothes 1985
Good nose - some rubber.
Much stronger nose than Scapa; oily feel
With water, some sweetness, some burn / slight burn on tongue.

2a. Balvenie Portwood 21
Nose rich - honey - lots of honey.
Flavour - rich broad and sweet very pleasant mild sweetness warm and spicy.
With water, nose diminishes but stays sweet. Feels sweet.

2b. Suntory Kakubin
Not much nose - malty and dry.
Tastes sweet and warm, quickly gets slightly bitter.  Finish dies quickly.
Johannes says soy sauce, and now I smell it (power of suggestion?)
Water kills the nose and the flavour - can taste the water.

3a. Laphroaig 10 yo
Medicinal, disinfectant, burning. Musty - vegetables.
Very long warming finish. Burning - rougher than the 15yo
With water becomes slightly sweet , tastes like Ardbeg without the licorice.

3b. Laphraoig 15 yo
Nose - smells like Laphraoig 10 with a mild, sweet tobacco added.
Taste - sweet, burning - goes back to the throat immediately.
Gets peaty in the middle, mouth gets oily. Warming and burning, sweet and a bit peppery - spicy; milder than the 10 yo but more flavourful and complex. With water, sweet, still medicinal.  sweeter than the 10yo.

4a. Longmorn Glenlivet 1963 40%
Nose - mild - hint of honey.
Flavour - sweet, quite astringent at first then astringency fades, very complex, some burn at sides of tongue.
Stays sweet, round and mouth-filling
With water, still sweet with a slight earthiness, becomes sweeter with water.

4b. Glenfarclas 105 60%
Nose - rich, strong, grassy, cereal.
Taste - extremely astringent, quite sweet, some spice that fades quickly.
Becomes cloudy when water added, very milky with water.
Nose gets fresher with water and flavour becomes sweeter and slightly oily.

5a. Ardbeg 17 yo  40%
Nose - rounder than the 1991 and barely sweet, some disinfectant, some sourness.
Taste, much sweeter, licorice, almost fishy.

5b. Ardbeg 1991 Signatory 43%
Nose - smells like a barn, mild dog odour, medicine, disinfectant.
PMU farm, almost a powdered milk in nose, some Laphroaig in nose.
Taste - sweet, some earth, very spicy and sweet, mud, warm on tongue.  no licorice at all. Becomes muddy in middle.  With water, lots of Laphroaig, just a hint of licorice at end.

6a. Laphroaig 15  - 43% (reprise)
Nose - very dry
Flavour - sweet, some disinfectant.  Very sweet with water.

6b. Macallan 10 yo cask strength 57%
Nose - sweet and lots of caramel.
Flavour - very, very sweet - lots of spices and alcohol, very astringent. burns your tongue, warms throat. Add water - very enjoyable

7a. Courvoisieur VSOP
Fine champagne cognac. Very dark colour.
Nose - raisins and wine, raisins so strong, oranges, sweetness, very very sweet and fruity. Raisins don't come out in the flavour, oily feel in mouth.
Add water - cognac and water don't mix - just the same, but less so - diluted.

7b. Lammerlaw 10 yrs. (whisky from New Zealand)
Nose - malty, bananas.  Banana right out front.
Taste - very sweet and spicy, burning on front and sides of tongue.
Very long finish - becomes astringent.

---

London - the next day. Cadenhead's was the first stop on this leg and frankly, it was only because I was in the neighbourhood.  On two previous visits I had found the staff rude, and disinterested, but this time someone else was minding the store, and we soon were into an animated conversation. Unfortunately there were no Ardbegs in stock so I left empty handed, which is not my wont.  I wonder if the proprietor misunderstood me, or vice versa, because when I got home I noticed an Ardbeg listed on their site, so I needlessly went home empty handed. In Milroy's, Doug McIvor and I discussed the relative merits of various Ardbegs.

Actually I didn't know it was McIvor until I got back to the hotel and opened the new Whisky Magazine.  In any case he brought me up to the main floor bar, purportedly to look up Michael Jackson's notes on the Ardbeg 1975 and the 30 yo.  Well, reading quickly turned to sampling and Doug left me to discuss the two with the barmaid who made sure I took long enough to really savour them.  I had already picked up a 30 yo from Rob Stevens, so left Milroy's with the 1975 tucked under my arm.

Evenings the following days passed quickly as my colleague and I sampled dozens of miniatures from Whiskyslijterij De Koning and Milroy's.  Another Longmorn Glenlivet (12 yo which Craig Daniels has since told me he prefers), Scapa 1988, Glenfarclas 30 yo, Rosebank 1988, Bruichladdich 10 yo cask strength, 2 varieties of Poit Dhubh, Mortlach 15 yo and on and on.  Some tasting notes are more complete than others, but you get the idea.  My palate just grew and grew and grew.  A pleasant surprise was a McMichael Islay Scotch Whisky I picked up at Marks and Spencer.  Probably a young Laphroaig.

The final acquisition came in Rome where I picked up a Macallan 7 yo, as it is unique to Italy.  Well, I bought a bottle for about $15 US, but was kept so busy I had no chance to open it.  It's an interesting package though.  More whimsical than the standard issues.  Much of the labeling is in Italian and the picture shows a man rolling out a barrel clearly marked Macallan 7 years old.  The neck label is signed Armando Giovinetti special selection.  I have told Johannes I'll bring it with me to Amsterdam next trip.

In the end Canada is richer by two Ardbegs, a Caol Ila, a Port Ellen, and the 7 yo Macallan.  And right now my liver is getting a well deserved week off!

Davin

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prE-pistle #8:  This & That
Date:  Thu, 18 May, 2000

Johannes wrote about large increases in prices in his latest report.
I just checked his Dutch price list. Some (many) of those prices are just amazing. The Ardbeg 10 is about half what I'd pay in New York (can't get it in Canada).  Unfortunately customs checks very carefully, and they don't allow any bottles shipped into the country.  Man, That Ardbeg 1991!! And I remember how great it was.

I have noticed no difference in prices here in Canada, but it may take time to trickle down through the government bureaucracy.  Most prices were jacked up for Christmas, then dropped 3 to 5 dollars in Feb or March. There is only one retailer in Ontario and one in Quebec, though each has hundreds of outlets.  The prices are published and remain very stable for at least 3 months at a time.  Every malt is equally available all the time, as you can have any malt transfered to your local store in about 3 days.

The selection is limited to about 50 of the most common commercial malts and new additions are rare.  One or two special malts are released every couple of months or so but these tend to sell out very quickly. For example when they brought in Laphroaig 15 it was all gone in under 3 hours. Te Bheag lasted about 5 days before all supplies were exhausted.  When I selected my favourite commercial malts, I had to leave out my real favourites as they are not available here.  I listed Quebec and Ontario prices, so no retailer can cry favouritism, though around here, they wouldn't even notice.
The next closest liquor store would be at least a 15 hour drive, and then it too is run by another provincial government.  I could drive to the States in a couple of hours, but I can only bring one bottle back and then only if I've been out of the country for at least 48 hours.

On a happier note, though, I think I have found a contact who can get the new Ardbeg 10 yo into Canada legally, and LCBO is releasing a Gordon & MacPhail Ardbeg in September.

I tried the Glen Scotia 14 yo when I was in London and yes, I did enjoy it.
Springbank is hugely in demand here, and only very rarely available, but you know what?  It doesn't knock me out.  Maybe after my recent experience with the Macallans I should give it another try. In Canada (and I think the US) Macallan has discontinued the 18 yo in favour of a 15 yo.  Apparantly this is due to insufficient stocks laid down in the 1980s.  I understand that the (superior) 18 yo is still available in the Netherlands and Great Britain. The 15 yo is almost $100 a bottle. Mine was a gift.
Just when I thought Macallan had dropped off my list I tried the 12yo and 15 yo again and really did enjoy them.  This mouth of mine is growing daily!

All the best,

Davin

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prE-pistle #9:  Rating Single Malts
Date:  Sun, 23 Jul 2000

This July 2000 Malt Madness update began as a e-mail exchange with Richard Block, a student in Texas who is surviving his student days drinking 1,000+ day old blended Scotch.  I've had my share of blends and found that a perfectly vile blend can be rendered somewhat drinkable by the addition of a portion of Laphroaig 10.

Richard and I got onto the subject of rating whiskies, and I have to say, I'm beginning to wonder about the value of ratings.  I use Michael Jackson's book to help me decide about new malts, but I know how to adjust his scores to my tastes, and he has a pretty comprehensive list.  I know he grossly over-rates the sherried whiskies, and grossly under-rates the Lowlanders and apιritif types. We're trying to develop a consistent scoring system for Malt Madness, but tasting is so personal I wonder if we will ever do it.  I also have to ask, why do we rate whisky?  We can remember anything that's truly memorable, so the reason to score whiskies must be to help others decide if they should buy an unknown bottle or not.  If this is the case, since taste is so subjective, probably a scale of 0 to 10 is all we really need.

I like the way Whisky Magazine rates the whiskies on a 1 to 10 scale (with quarter points allowed so it is really a 40 point scale). It's interesting that the same whisky will occasionally be rated differently by the same taster in different contexts.  I guess this shows they're being honest, and I was delighted to see them publish the details of a tasting where the illustrious Michael Jackson mistook the blended Famous Grouse for Macallan and Macallan 10 for Bruichladdich. Jackson attributed his error to the fact that there is a lot of Macallan in Famous Grouse. "Not so" says Craig. Tamdhu and some Highlanders with a touch of Macallan as top dressing.  But the rumours of Macallan in FG have started and I'll bet a lot of posers will be tasting it there "spontaneously."

Richard scores his whiskies on a scale of 0 to 100. "As you know, I'm not down on blends," he says, "so I rate 'em as I see 'em.  Most of the crappy ones rate 5 - 15, some of the better ones ...  30 - 60, the really good ones in the 70's to low 80s, the best in the 90s and Royal Salute 21 --- 96!!!"  I too would like to have the subtlety of nose to be able to use the whole 100 points, but in the mean time I have to say it's pretty rare for me to award the same score to a whisky at different tastings.  Overall, though, the distribution is pretty consistent.

(Comment by Johannes: For me, 'ratings' are a helpful way to quantify a nosing and tasting experience, making it easier to give a certain malt its rightful place in the cosmic order of things. I think we can all agree that preferences in the field of taste and smell are personal (and cultural) by definition. I don't care too much for cooked carrots or spinage, but there seem to be people out there who like it.
Admittedly, there are a few pitfalls, but I think ratings can be very useful als long as we take them for what they are - a way to express and communicate purely personal malt preferences in numerical form. Please keep in mind that my 1-100 scale includes blended whiskies, and I need quite a few points to express the difference between Ballantine's and Lagavulin 16 yrs. old. See my 'system' page for details.)

Without realising it, I have become part of a whisky tasting group here in Ottawa.  We don't have a name and we don't rank the whiskies we drink.  Mainly John, Al, Richard and I get together for camaraderie and to enjoy a few malts, usually at the Barley Mow.  The most recent evening was memorable mostly for the sullen waitress, and her inability to understand the need for nosing-type glasses.  We tried, among others, Benrinnes (very spicy), Longmorn (mmm... , sweet and peaty) and Benriach (OK), then finished off with several Lagavulins, which Richard had ordered on arriving, then left untouched in order to save our palates for the more delicate others.

Next event is August 11 when we will retire to a local park with bottles and bags to spend a day playing wino.  When we achieve face-down drunkenness, our wives will pick us up and drag us home.  Richard (Block) thinks I'm too old for this tomfoolery.  Then he reconsiders "Oh wait a sec... you're never too old for a dram of Lagavulin!!!!"  I'll let him know around the middle of August.

I waded into the "self-styled connoisseur" controversy by dropping a line to Bowmore's Derek Gilchrist asking him how I could become enough of a connoisseur to enjoy their malts.  I had an immediate reply from one of his colleagues saying he was on vacation but would reply on return.  Perhaps if he was ready for vacation his scathing attack on Internet malt groups was just a symptom of burn-out. For those who don't read it until 3 years from now, this issue has been well covered on all the malt discussion groups and should be in their archives. Essentially, in a response to a query regarding unpleasant flavours in some Bowmores (and I have to admit, I can't taste them) Mr. Gilchrist said that many of the self-styled connoisseurs on the Internet don't know what they're talking about (this, by the way, is true), and that there were no problems with Bowmore products. He went on to say that Bowmore will take legal action against websites that post negative comments about Bowmore products. My comment that if his nose was as snotty as his attitude, it's no wonder he needs a chromatograph to identify his Bowmores, elicited zero comments when posted to the MALTS-L group.

(Comment by Johannes: Legal action? What a load of bollocks! I don't consider myself an 'expert', but I know what I like and I know what I don't like. I happen to be rather fond of older Bowmores, but if I find a disappointment like the uninspired 'Surf' version I'll make sure to air my opinions about it. Sue me!)

This may be a symptom of the burgeoning number of discussion groups.
Over the last year I have noted a decided drop-off in activity on individual whisky discussion sites, as more and more discussions groups emerge.  It looks like the growing numbers of sites are fragmenting the core group of contributors and reducing the contributions to each.  It'll be too bad if some of the older sites don't survive the competition.  Already scotch.com is dead, and it looks like the Howff will soon follow.  The Whisky Magazine site, even though well-seeded by WM-originating messages also seems fairly inactive.  What's your favourite discussion group?  Let me know.

Anyhoo, I'm taking the month of August off. Will do some camping with my son and malt buying in Cape Cod and Vermont. Also expect to do a lot of tasting getting the palate ready for the fall and the beginning of the new drinking season.  May slip in a few Belgian beers, another vice introduced to me by Johannes!

All for now, Davin

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prE-pistle #10:  Glenfiddichs
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000

Hi Johannes and all,

Well here is my latest prE-pistle.  It's a head to head tasting between the old Glenfiddich "Pure Malt" and the new Glenfiddich 12 year old "Single Malt."  I honestly espected this was little more than a labelling change so was surprised to detect some distinct differences. Primarily the 12 year old is still the same old bland Glenfiddich, but with a little more body, a bit more flavour, and a drier nose.  This head to head was conducted in two stages.  First, the undiluted 40% abv malts, then after lunch and a break, the diluted versions.  I was careful to keep the dilutions the same.
Here are the details:

Glenfiddich no age statement
Colour:  Apple juice
Nose:  Initial strong smell of sweet apple cider.  Sweet, malty and a bit spirity.  The nose is much bigger than the 12 year old.  Adding water diminishes the nose to a faint grassiness.
Taste:  Sweet, slightly oily and a little soapy, slight burn, with a bit of cloying alcohol.  The nose does not carry over to the taste.  There is a slight metallic astringency after the oiliness leaves.  For an instant, after I added water there was a flash of leather, but it quickly disappeared, never to return.
Finish:  Very short and not much flavour.  Quickly dissolves to nothing.  Finish of the diluted dram was gone almost right away with no distinctive notes.
Comments:  This whisky really is bland.  No doubt about it the 12 year old is better, though still nothing to write home about.  I can see why non-whisky types like Glenfiddich.  It starts out sweet, has a spirity middle with a bit of burn almost like a vodka.

Glenfiddich 12 year old
Colour:  Apple juice, slightly darker than the nas.
Nose:  Apple cider, but drier and less powerful than the nas.  Malty, grassy, dusty and dry.  Adding water reduces the nose to a faint sweet maltiness.  (I am using the smell of dry barley beer malt as my reference.)  A hint of dryness remains.
Taste:  Sweet and dusty, slight burn, oily on roof of mouth.  Most of the nose does not carry over into the taste.  It's pleasant, but pretty bland, though not as bland as the n.a.s. version.  No strong flavours to offend or entice; no subtleties to intrigue.  After a long while a passing hint of apple.  Some hint of bitterness in the middle quickly resolves again into sweetness.  Adding water renders it quite sweet, oily then metallic.  This is a more substantial whisky that the nas, though they are in fact quite close in taste.
Finish:  Malty, sweet and longer than I expected.
Comments:  Like a Lowland whisky (of which I've only tasted Auchentoshan and Rosebank) with the flavour filtered out.  It is not as rich, or flavourful as Auchentoshan nor as delicate, complex and subtle as Rosebank.  A head to head against these two would be interesting.  The Lowlanders would really shine.  It's better than the n.a.s. but not so changed as to offend (or even be noticed) by the occasional drinker.
Almost strays into Balvenie territory.

'Til next time,
Davin

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prE-pistle #11:  Bowmore Darkest - The Confusing Malt
Date:  December 28, 2000

As others have noted, Bowmore released a new malt, called Darkest, in mid-1997.  By mid-2000 it had made it to these colonial shores where it was stirring up a bit of a controversy.  While others were detecting unexpected and unwelcome flavours, I found the freshly-opened whisky quite appealing, then noticed rapid deterioration and changes as the bottle aged.  Patrick had the same experience, while the bottle Louis was working on was quite stable.  I've dubbed Bowmore Darkest the 'Confusing Malt' for it seems to lack consistency among bottles and, for Patrick and I, changes from one dram to the next. Craig reported elsewhere the darker coloured and more intense earlier bottlings he had tasted were superior to a recent version.  Then a correspondent from Germany, where all contents must be listed on the label, noted that colour was not a good indicator of anything, since the German labels show caramel colouring as one of the ingredients in Darkest.

My Darkest usually begins with the trademark Bowmore, dusty, antiseptic, peat-smoke nose.  It's a sherried malt and sweet, but I can't detect sherry in the nose,  though I do get a fleeting whiff of cordite.  It's sweet and slightly soapy on the tongue, developing more in the front of the mouth.  The middle, often becomes fruity, and more recently there has been an overpowering fruity bath soap. This soap becomes much more dominant as the flavour moves to the back of the throat.  A few drops of water sweeten up the nose and add a touch of berries.  Initially water ruins the palate though, as the soap and a hint of metal move to the fore.  The smoke returns in the middle as the soap now begins to dissipate.  It's warm and marginally spicy on the tongue.  The warmth but not the spice continues into the throat followed by a smoky, fading finish.  The empty glass has a wonderful, strong, smoky, medicinal aroma with just a hint of sweet malt.

I said I'd not buy another bottle because of all the disappointing drams I've had from this one, but since individual bottles seem to perform differently, I think I'll pick up a mini or two if I can find any. Perhaps leave one half-full for a couple of months then do a head-to-head with a freshly opened one.  (As an aside, I like comparing minis with the full-sized bottle as you can be pretty sure of getting different batches.  I've found some great differences in some instances.)

Sweet and Sherried Malt Tasting

Preparing for the matrix lead to a number of re-tastings, one of the most enjoyable being a four-day comparison of sweet and sherried malts.
Day one began with initial notes on Balvenie 10, 12, 15 and 21, Glendronach 12 and 15 and Macallan 12, 15 and 18.  Day two brought a simultaneous tasting panel with the Macallans and the Balvenies.  This lead to all kinds of comparisons and more notes.  On day three it was the Balvenies and the Glendronachs, then on day four the Macallans and the Glendronachs.  This was a very instructive session as each malt was compared on three occasions to several other similar malts leading to a good deal of precision in detecting the differences.

Balvenie 10yo 43% abv (81)
Nose:  Very sweet clover honey, a little dusty, a hint of apple.
Palate: Very sweet, like dilute sugar water.  Spicy tingles, malty, grassy honey.
Finish:  Sweet, and malty.
Empty glass:  Malt and dry grain.

Balvenie 12yo Doublewood 43% abv (82)
Nose:  More complex.  Dustier than 10yo, slight hint of flowers, green apple, fresh hay.  Malty with a hint of wood.  Real clover nectar, a hint of cigar box and beeswax.
Palate:  Sweet, watery and estery.  Some wood, cigar box and honey.
Finish:  tobacco and malt.
Empty glass:  Sweet, mild, pipe tobacco.  Dusty.  Slightly oily.

Balvenie 15yo Single Barrel 50.4% abv (85)
Nose:  Again a complex nose.  Dusty and malty with a sweet vanilla and some clover.  Very full floral scents with honey. Grassy and wild flower garden (including the soil).  Sweet silage and fresh hay.
Palate:  Rich, sweet, honey and wood, strong and spicy, then very spicy.  A distinct raw mushroom taste develops in the middle.
Finish:  Sweet and malty
Empty glass:  Hay, sweet cigarette tobacco, and honey.

Balvenie 21yo Port Wood 40% abv (84)
Nose:  Sweet, honey, woody, waxy, candy.  The sweetest of the four Balvenies.  Mild cream cheese.
Palate:  Sweet and honeyed with an early metallic flash.  Milder than the others.  A slight tingle, mild and floral.  Not quite as rich as the 15yo.  The reduced abv is noticeable though there is a mild, warm spice at the back of the throat and tip of the tongue.  Not as complex as expected.
Finish:  Long and sweet.  The sweetness fades into mild wood with a hint of fresh fish.
Empty glass:  Toasted bread and honey.  Sweet, mild pipe tobacco

Glendronach 12yo (sherried) 43% abv (80)
This old bottle of Glendronach 12 came from a tiny grocery store in Macau.  The shelves were partly bare and the only liquor was seven or eight old, dusty, single malts in the window.  When the proprietress picked up the Glendronach the white square it left on the shelf showed the bottle had gone unnoticed for some time.  This malt is just laced with raisins, and yes, a hint of sulphur.
Nose:  Raisins, prunes then a hint of cider vinegar (or is it sulphur?) Sherry so strong it smells like pure sweet Pedro Ximinez then a whiff of dark fruit cake.
Palate:  Sweet and fruity but musty.  Spicy.  Raisins, round and robust, but fresher than the 15yo.  An unusually fruity whisky and very enjoyable.  Darker in colour and much better all-round than the 15yo.
Finish:  fading fruitiness.
Empty glass:  Slightly sour, some sulphur and dried fruit.  A mild floral sweetness.

Glendronach 15yo 40% abv (76)
Nose:  Sweet musty sherry and fruit with a hint of licorice root. Sulphur.  Dried fruit and apricots, quite sweet sherry; almost a dark rum sweetness.  Brown sugar or fudge and cream liqueur (Amarula?)
Palate:  Creamy and sweet, some mild spice on lips; warm in mouth. Woodier than the 12yo.  Very sweet on the tongue with sherry and a hint of wood.  Again like dilute sugar water.
Finish:  Woody and grassy.
Empty glass:  Faint woodiness, meaty, malty.

Macallan 12yo 43% abv (81)
Nose:  Sweet malt vinegar, sherry, cider vinegar, hard candy, sulphur, esters.
Palate:  Sweet, sherry, slight soap.  Some minor sweet spice.  A bit metallic in the middle.
Finish:  Slight metallic bitterness.
Empty glass:  Ginger ale; mildly woody.

Macallan 15yo (82)
Nose:  Sweet and dry, some esters, alcohol.  Dusty, dry tobacco.  Some fudge.  The least sweet of the Macallans.
Palate:  Quite soapy and bitter.  Hot and briefly spicy.  Some sweetness.  Sulphur, like a struck match.
Finish:  Rubbery and metallic.
Empty Glass:  Mild sherry; gunpowder.

Macallan 18yo (85)
An undated bottle from a forgotten liquor store in New York.  It was dusty, but is it old?  I thought all the 18 year olds had a vintage year on the label, but not this one.  It's a truly exceptional whisky though.
Nose:  Aromatic rich and full.  Vanilla, sweet sherry, nutmeg in eggnog.  Becomes fruity then estery.  Rich, heavy, dried fruit.  Fudge, soft candy.
Palate:  Very spicy.  An initial flash of sweet wood and a hint of mustiness. Sweet and fruity sherry.  The sweetness continues in the back of the throat.  Sugary, fudge.
Finish:  Sweet then woody.
Empty glass:  Strong honey.  Very strong beeswax.  Slightly sour dried fruit.

Canadian Whiskies

With the introduction of a few boutique brands, Canadian whiskies have begun to find their way into the glasses of more and more connoisseurs. The first wave featured Gooderham and Worts, a traditional rye whisky, and Lot 40 which is a personal favourite pot-still rye.  A newer entry is a pair from Kittling Ridge, a Niagara winery, which has introduced "Barrel Select" and "Three Grains" rye whiskies, both of which are excellent.

My ventures into Canadian whisky have brought me into contact with Montreal connoisseur Marty Brunet and we recently spent a pleasant afternoon in Montreal visiting SAQ liquor stores (Societee d'Alcools de Quebec).  Marty also took me to a little stemware shop called Vinum Design  at 1400 Rue City Councillors, where I purchased four more of the Glenmorangie-style tasting glasses.  They had a good selection of single malt glasses including some in crystal, and an excellent range of prices.   Vinum also had an interesting wine tasting game with bottled scents for players to identify.  It was tempting, but so close to Christmas I dare not buy anything for myself.  We finished the afternoon off at L'Ile Noire Whisky Pub on Ontario Street, where I tried the Rare Malts Clynelish 21yo 58.9% abv cask strength.  Marty said some taste mustard in it, but I found none.  It was spicy, but surprisingly smooth.  The alcohol was way in the background.  Uncharacteristic for a cask strength whisky.  No tasting notes,  the company was too engaging, but it's a definite must to try again.
Marty is an interesting guy.  He's a home brewer, who grows his own hops and buys his malt direct from a malting company.  After eight years brewing beer he plans to move on to whisky.  With his analytical approach and open mind, I can see a new Canadian single malt beginning to take shape.  This would be welcome addition, though I have recently learned, not a first for Canada.

Historic Canadian Single Malts

When one thinks of single malts, one thinks of Scotland, but for more than a century they have been produced, albeit not as well, outside Scotland also.  France's Armorik (http://www.whisky-breton.com/warenghem.htm) is a Breton single not heard of often, and Lammerlaw was produced in New Zealand.
Suntory (http://www.suntory.com/company/spirits.html) makes a range of malts in Japan and St. George single malt is a highly rated product of the USA.

Canada also has produced its own share of singles over the years.  Early Canadian single malts available until the time of Prohibition included brands called Old Perth; Old Perth Malt Whisky (from different distilleries); Mountain Dew; VVO Canadian Scotch Whisky and Seagrams Pure Malt Whisky.  Probably the most interesting name for a Canadian single was Ogopogo, produced until the 1980's by British Columbia's Okanagan Distillery.  Ogopogo took its name from a Loch Ness-like sea monster that is still sighted once or twice a year in the long narrow Lake Okanagan.

It's winter in the north - downtime for some distilleries and slow time for the rest.  But for us, The Malt Mad, it's the peak of the season.
May it be a great one for all.

Davin

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prE-pistle #12:  New Years Resolutions
Date:  Thu, 01 February, 2001

New Years resolutions, you know those promises you make on January 1 and forget by about the fifteenth.  Well this year my resolution was to taste a new malt every week.  To add some incentive I issued a challenge to the Malt Madness team to join me.  I figure if Michael Jackson can taste 500 malts in a year, we can taste at least 52 that are new to us.  To qualify the malt must be new to the taster, some kind of tasting notes must be made, and a provisional score (subject to future validation and adjustment) must be assigned.  I won't say who took up the challenge, but there are several of us in on it now.  For January my new malts are Strathisla 1985 from Gordon and MacPhail; Arran nas; Milroys Talisker 1988 8yo, Littlemill nas; and Lochindaal 10yo.

Strathisla 1985, Gordon and MacPhail 40% - Provisional score:  80
An Quaich ordered in some miniatures for Christmas and I bought a mixed case of Strathisla 1985 and Glentauchers 1979.  Though the cheaper of the two, the Strathisla is most certainly the superior malt.  It's rich, sweet and has a nice, coating, mouth-filling feel.
Nose:  Malt, wood, dusty green hay and dried grain.  Nutty.  Dry and dusty then sweet, floral, honey.  The nose develops slowly and very obviously over time, becoming sweeter and maltier and ending up with a hint of brown sugar.  With water the nose is grassy and grainy with lots of malt and hints of honey and wood.
Palate:  Very sweet and mildly woody, oily, warm but not spicy until the middle when a warming minty tingle appears.  A brief, passing bitterness that develops into tobacco then damp earth.  With water it's sweet and malty, spicier, with a slippery mouth feel and a hint of grass.
Finish:  Long, sweet malt and wood.  Slippery.
Empty glass:  cocoa, nuts, wood and fudge.

Arran nas, distillery bottling, 43%  - Provisional score:  75
Having tried the 2 year old Arran spirit, I didn't have very high hopes for this one.  The two year old had been a very chemical tasting concoction, and at cask strength not particularly enjoyable.  The nas was a pleasant surprise.  A few years in oak had worked off the acetone edges leaving a sweet, malty whisky.  Malt Madness surfer and Toronto malt aficionado, John Di Marco had drawn my attention to the Arran whisky in an e-mail in which he wondered about its island qualities.  Well, I could remember no smoke in the 2 year old spirit, and found none in the mature whisky either.  Arran is not typical of island malts, being much maltier and lacking any overt peat smoke.  No doubt the folks at Arran have plans to bring out a more mature version as time goes by.  Given the tremendous improvement between the two year old and this nas version, which is probably less than 5 years old, we can only wait for bigger and better things to come.
Nose:  Malty cereal, sweet floral esters.
Palate:  Quite sweet, smooth and warming, but not too spicy at first.  Subsequent sips become hotter and spicier.  The mouth feel is a bit oily.  With water it's sweet and malty with a brief spiciness.
Finish:  Just fades out sweetly.
Empty glass:  Sweet and sour.  A new aroma for me:  rye crisps.

Talisker 1988, 8yo, from Milroys, 45%  - Provisional Score:  91
Wow, this is great whisky.  If the already boisterous 10 year old distillery bottling could be any friskier, Milroys have found the casks to prove it.  In a head to head with the 10 year old distillery bottling, the Milroys 8yo was much paler in colour, almost clear.  Smokier than the 10yo and not as sweet, it had a distinct hint of bitter chocolate.  In a head to head with Ardbeg 17 the Milroys 8yo was smokier and sweeter and the Ardbeg smelled sour after nosing the Talisker.  Head to head with the sweet, malty Arran, the Milroys Talisker was also sweet, and even more so when water was added.
Nose:  Smokey, sweet, flowery and dry.  Medicinal with a licorice undertone.  Very Islay-like.  After adding water it becomes very sweet with milder smoke and antiseptic.
Palate:  Spicy and sweet then very hot.  Smokey.  Spicy, peppery; gets hotter and smokier in the middle.  Medicinal and smoky with an Islay air.  Bitter chocolate.  Smokier than the 10yo.  With water it is quite sweet with muted but developing smoke.
Finish:  Smoky, medium-long.  Cigarette ashes.
Empty Glass:  Smoke and musty medicine. 
This is good whisky.

Littlemill nas Distillery Bottling, 40% - Provisional Score:  82
Lowland whiskies have a reputation for being light, but in the case of Littlemill, that does not mean flavourless.  This is an interesting and unique whisky and I recommend it highly, if only for the second sip when malted milk flashes across your upper lip, then lingers and lingers on the palate. 
Nose:  Dry and dusty then floral and sweet.  Develops into flowers and honey then even later, green apples.  With water it's oily, estery and sweet with a hint of nutmeg or egg nog.  Maybe minty, like creamy mints.  A hint of dry hay.
Palate:  Sweet, mild, delicate, chocolate and malt.  Oily.  On the second sip it's creamy, like malted milk.  This is the first time I've tasted this flavour in a malt and it is very unusual, especially on the upper lip.  Water brings out the malted milk and adds a further hint of spice, but overall I prefer it neat.
Finish:  It just slowly fades out.

Lochindaal 10yo 43% - Provisional Score:  73
I had heard rumours of a new Islay distillery called Lochindaal, so when I came across it, I had to try it.  First sip, and I knew something was up.  It tasted just like Bruichladdich.  A quick reference to "the literature" confirmed that it was not a new distillery at all, but an independent bottling of the same old Bruichladdich the distillery supplies (in Canada at least) at 40%.  So, for a second tasting I tried a head to head with the Bruichladdich, which was just a little bit fresher and more flavourful.
Nose:  Initially very malty, then dusty and malty.  Dry grain, a bit fruity and estery.  Fruitcake, sweet and sweet and sour.  With water it's green and grassy with a few whiffs of smoke.  Drier than the Bruichladdich.
Palate:  A bit sweet, like cereal.  Pepper develops in the middle.  With water it's more flavourful.  Woody with a slight hint of peat smoke when breathing out.  Bitter chocolate follows initial sweetness.  A bit spicy in the middle with the flavour of black pepper.
Finish:  Long and woody.
Empty glass:  Sweet with a touch of wood.

That's one month down, eleven to go.  Coming in February two Connoisseurs Choice Ardbegs, the 1975 and 1978, and two others yet undecided.

Davin

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prE-pistle #13 - February & March Malt Update
Date:  Sun, 01 April, 2001

Beginning with this update, I am using a proper nosing glass, purchased as Cadenheads for nosing my malts, and a proper tasting glass for, well, you know what for.  Most of these malts have been tasted 3 times, usually on consecutive evenings.  I'm hoping in weeks to come to do some head to heads and tasting panels with my new malts, but for now the punishing grind of the 52 Challenge is unrelenting.

Ardbeg 1975 Connoisseurs Choice - 40%  - Provisional Score: 88
A nice Ardbeg, and noticeably better than the CC Ardbeg 1978.  In turn, it can't quite measure up to the distillery bottled 1975.  Compared to the Ardbeg 17yo, the smoke of the CC 1975 dominates, but next to the Ardbeg 10 it simply disappears.
Nose:  Smoke and Vicks menthol, rich, full, clove oil.  With water becomes sweet and sour, smoky with a little sweetness.  Muddy and medicinal.
Palate:  Smoke and mud; rich muddy middle.  With water: smoky and warm;
spicy and tingly in the mouth.  Richer and more flavourful than the 1978.
Finish:  Long and medicinal.
Empty glass:  Smokey, barn smell, ,medicinal, sweet and musty.

Ardbeg 1978 Connoisseurs Choice - 40% - Provisional Score: 84
This is the CC 1975 only less so.  A bit of a disappointment after the 1975, but hey, it's an Ardbeg, and still has a lot to offer.
Nose:  Smoke, rich, full, develops a bit of mud.  With water it stays rich and smoky with a bit more muddy and medicinal tones.
Palate:  Smokey with a bit of earth.  Becomes spicy and hot.  Mud in the middle.  Sweeter than the 1975.  With water it is smoky, but less so than the 1975.  It is also less powerful than its older brother, and somewhat sweet in the middle.
Finish:  Long and smoky.
Empty Glass:  Dry grain, smoke, sharper than 1975, sweet.

Glenfiddich Solera Reserve 15yo - 40% - Provisional Score: 73
Nose:  Sweet, fudge with a hint of gunpowder.  Sourish, wood.  Over time the gunpowder becomes more pronounced and I like it.
Palate:  Feels like it's going to be bitter, but it isn't.  Hot and very spicy.  The spice slowly concentrates on the tongue and the mouth becomes slippery.  Peppery.  Leaves your mouth feeling like you've put too much pepper on your food.  Sweet with a brief hint of metal.
Finish:  Medium length, hot and spicy, becoming mildly woody.
Empty glass: Sweet, faint hint of fudge.

Glenfiddich Ancient Reserve 18yo - 40% - Provisional score: 71
Nose:  Fresh, dusty, grass, some spirit, some malt.  Many subtle smells – tobacco, apples, green apple, fruitcake, peat.
Palate:  Briefly bitter.  Hot and warming, Not much body at first, then slippery.  Spice quickly fades.  Not as sweet as the 15yo.
Finish:  Medium length, fades to nothing.
Empty Glass:  Sweetish, not much smell.

Glenallachie 1991 Sherry /Cask, Signatory - 43% abv.
Natural colour – dark yellow apple juice. Initial impression:  A disappointing hiss rather than a plunk when the bottle was first opened, but then came the strong and wonderful scent of honey, beeswax and sweet wood.  My hopes were high for something to match the greatness of the Balvenies.
Nose:  Esters, warm, sweet spice.  A nice sharp spice in the nose.  Heavy white clover honey smell develops into a milder honey then becomes floral.
Adding water makes it spirity and estery but the honey remains.
Palate:  Sweet, very hot and spicy.  I think this is the hottest malt I have tried yet.  Quite astringent.  There is an initial flash of spirit, but it never returns.  The initial sweetness is short-lived and quickly turns quite hot.  Lots of hot spice all over the tongue and mouth.  With water it remains hot and spicy but a metallic, cheesy bitterness develops.  It is mildly astringent.  The spice becomes peppery, which it is not in the undiluted dram.
Finish:  Medium in length, spicy and hot, then fading.
Empty glass:  Maple sugar, pine soap.
Initially I scored this malt at 78, but it just didn't live up to the initial impressions, nor does it become complex or lingering.  Nominal score: 72.

Caol Ila 15 yo Flora and Fauna - 43% abv
(Well fauna actually – it's got a sea lion on the label)
Initial impression – mmm woody and smoky, nuts and tobacco.
Nose:  Yes, smoky but not overpowering.  Chemicals.  A malty freshness.
Kippers.  Subdued Islay sweetness.  Develops into a typical Islay smokiness. Water reduces the smokiness.
Palate:  Sweet and smoky.  A milder, subtler but still southern Islay with a wonderful peat smoke when you breathe out through your nose.  Creosote.  A bit spicy and tongue tingling.  With water a bit of bitterness.  Still warming, spicy and smokey.
Finish:  Long, warm, Islay smoke.
Empty glass:  musty, earthy, medicinal.
Nominal score: 81

Bowmore 21 yo – 43% abv
Initial impression:  Nutty, peanut skins and smoke.
Nose:  Strong, alcohol, subtle smokiness, hint of licorice.  There are lots of suggestions of scents that I just can't place.  Sour pipe tobacco.  The smoke is way in the background and tobacco up front.  The tobacco smell lingers in your nose for four or five breathes.  A little bit of wood – tobacco box.  I expected a lot more wood in a 21 year old whisky.  This is a very pleasant nosing whisky so take your time before you taste.  With water a musty round sweet and heavy licorice emerges.  Flashes of sweet and sour and the wood disappears from the nose.
Taste:  Sweet and medicinal, smokey.  Warming.  Very spicy on the tip of the tongue.  Hints of woodiness.  This is a great whisky and one in which the complexity is just seductive.  What next??? best describes the experience as the whisky develops in the glass and in your mouth.  With water, more sweetness and a transient, slightly oily feel.  A nice warm mouth feel.
Finish:  A pleasing, long and somewhat smoky middles fades into sweet and powerful licorice then to mouth-filling warm smoke.  It's unusual the way the smoke grows, as it's fairly muted in the beginning.  It's a longish finish that finally just fades away.
Empty glass:  Sweet tobacco, spit on a hot stove.
Nominal score: 93 (man, that's right up there with my favourite Ardbegs.)
Still to come this month: MacAllan 7yo and Clynelish from Signatory.  It's month 3 of the 52 Challenge and I'm still on track.

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prE-pistle #14 - Yes, I still drink whisky
Date:  Sat, 14 July, 2001

Hi fellow Malt Mad,

This is a crazy travel year for me, and I still have major mouse arm, hence my recent silence.  Many more malts tasted including some odd ones. Ankara from Turkey (not too bad and at $6.50 a major bargain), Clontarf from Ireland (this comes in a strange package that includes 3 different whiskies in stacked bottles made to look like they are in one bottle.  The single malt is only ok, the gold blend is crap but the black label blend is not so bad if you like rye whisky.), and Aleksjandr a single rye from Latvia that tastes like nothing more than Drambuie with a licorice cigar in it.  New malts include Royal Lochnagar (liked it), Imperial (ok) and a host of others. I hope to get a decent update, prepared before I'm off again in September.

Davin

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prE-pistle #15 - Yes, I still drink whisky (Part II)
Date:  Fri, 27 July, 2001

To help keep track, with this update I've started numbering my new malts as I pass the half way mark in the 52 Challenge.

13.  Clynelish 1991 10 yo Signatory  (bourbon barrel). 43.0% abv.
Malty nose, sweet and mildly astringent, a hint of brown sugar.
Bitter/sour mouth drying. A sweetness in the throat that develops into an unpleasant finish. A strange, very long finish that tastes like vomit. Not before bedtime.
Nominal score 68

14.  Rosebank 1990 10 yo Signatory. 43.0% abv.
Almost colourless; just a hint of green. Mild but malty nose. Sweet, but definitely no sherry. A bit green and chemically.  Develops a grassy flavour.
Nominal score 72

15.  Glen Grant nas. 40.0% abv.
Malty nose. Wheat, aquatic plants, sweetish malt.
Alcoholic but not spirity. Empty glass is a sweet minty evergreen.
This is my second best bang for the buck ever.  Bought it for $10.00 US in Panama Duty Free.
Nominal score 65

16.  Tomintoul Glenlivet 12 yo. 43.0% abv.
Nose grassy, malty with a bit of wood and dry grain. Warm, but not spirity at all.  Palate bitter becoming peppery then bitter again. A bit astringent. Some sweetness develops in the back of the roof of the mouth. A medium length finish that fades to grass.  With water the nose is somewhat diminished with dry grain and malt.  The palate is spicy and malty and still a bit astringent but the bitterness becomes a hot spice. The diluted finish fades to nothing.
Nominal score 63

17.  Royal Lochnagar 12 yo. 40% abv.
Nose fruity with licorice and a minty feel but not scent. I can feel the licorice almost sweet in my throat. Palate is smokey sherry. Sweetish but a bit astringent. Gets some malt in the middle. Quite hot in the throat and spicy on the tongue. A smokey finish.  With water the nose is malty and smokey with some sweetness. The palate is now quite sweet, but still smokey and a bit spicy. There is a nice licorice feel in the middle like a mild and fruity northern Islay. The finish is nice and long.  Fruit and sherry with a bit of malt.
Nominal score 76

18.  Old Pulteney 12 yo. 40.0% abv.
The nose is malty and a touch estery.  A hint of ozone or bleach.  Palate is sweet with grain and nuts.  Warm and sweet. Mildly spicy then hot, rich and creamy.  Stays hot then becomes peppery in the middle.  A slightly bitter undertone.  Stays quite sweet in the mouth and back of the throat.  The finish is long and sweet, the empty glass, slightly sweet.  Mmm, nummy.  A good test of my palate.  By chance I tasted this one a second time a month later and came up with almost exactly the same notes.
Nominal score 80

19.  Glen Garioch 8 yo. 40.0% abv.
Nose has raisins, shoe leather, fruit and sherry. A hint of smoke.
The palate is perfumy, soapy with lacquer and a bit of spice in the back of the throat.  The finish is short of slightly sour malt.
Nominal score 73

20.  Imperial 1979 G&M.  40.0% abv.
Nose - alcohol, grass, slightly musty with just a passing hint of wood.
Palate is sweet, a bit spicy and mouth filling with a metallic feel on the teeth. Not very complex, but it gets sweeter with each sip. The finish is long and sweet.
Nominal score 71

21.  Linkwood 15 yo G&M.  40.0% abv.
The nose is warming with wood esters. A splendid mix of ever-developing flavours including smokiness, sweetness, raw mushroom, apple juice, citrus fruit, nuts/almonds, and caramel. The nose develops progressively over time.
Palate is sweet, slightly astringent with some wood and caramel and a pleasant bitterness in the throat. Finish is sweet and fading.
Nominal score 75

22.  Mortlach 10 yo Scottish Wildlife. 43.0% abv.
Nose is fruity, woody with a touch of tobacco and a touch of honey. Over time the honey increases. Palate is malty, sweet, spicy then quite spicy. Not as rich as other Mortlachs I've tried. The empty glass smells like caramel.
Nominal score 77

23.  Speyburn 10 yo.  40.0% abv.
Nose has a slight smokey pungency. Palate is initially almost tasteless then warm with very mild spice. It becomes slightly metallic with a passing hint of smoke. It's mildly astringent. A bit malty in the middle with a touch of green hay. Pleasant, but no bite. A very mild whisky. The finish fades quickly on a slightly sweet malty note.
Nominal score 68

XX.  Springbank 10 yo. 46% abv.
(Bonus malt; already tasted so it doesn't count for 52 challenge)
Nose fresh, grassy, tobacco, a malty sweetness; a hint of licorice. Palate rich, sweet and spicy. Very warming. Overall a bit disappointing given all the hype it gets.
Nominal score 82

And now on to Odd-Ball Whiskies I Have Known. Since the 52 Challenge is really a (very pleasant) training exercise I thought I would venture into some odd-ball whiskies from strange places that may or may not be trying to be Scotland. Picked up some rather oddball notes. My favourite was Sullivans Cove (no apostrophes in Tasmania?) and the hands down loser was Viskijs Alexsandrs, a liqueur-like dram that the liquorist put considerable effort into telling me not to buy. She was right.

24.  Latvijas Viskijs Alexsandrs. 40.0% abv.
A novel whisky I found in Latvia.  I think it's a single malt rye. Fermented and distilled from Latvian rye in 1993, it has absolutely no familiar rye notes. The nose contains cereal, pablum and lacks the spicy note of Canadian rye whisky. It is sweet and estery but disappears quickly. Palate is cotton candy, nutty marzipan, drambuie, sweet like a liqueur - too sweet. It's a bit spicy and hot. Tastes green, a bit off. It develops a spicy middle then fades to a saccharine sweetness. Reminds me of a glass of drambuie with a sweet licorice cigar soaking in it. The only whisky I've ever thrown down the drain. After 4 drams, final score 45

25.  Clontarf Single Malt Irish Whiskey. 40.0% abv.
Nose has all the advertised vanilla and more. Very grassy, malty and fresh. An almost marshmallowy sweetness. Palate begins sweet and malty. Cloying and creamy. Develops some strong spice - almost peppery, especially on the side of the tongue.  There is a slight metallic feel in the middle and it finishes on sweet cereal. Exactly as described on the label except with a negative connotation. This malt is crap.  "Mellowed through Atlantic Irish oak charcoal".
Why?? To remove all the flavour??
The barrels used in this exceptionally bad Irish Whiskey were "specially selected by the Master Taster".  Let's hope he stays out of Scotland. This whiskey comes in a neat package of three stacking 200 ml bottles that look like a single bottle. Each of the three contains a different whiskey - a crappy blend, a second so so blend with a mysterious rye note and the crappy single malt described above. Not worth the $20.00 US I paid for it, but it looks neat.
Nominal score 52

26.  Glen Breton Rare Canadian Malt Whisky. 40.0% abv.
A sweet malty musty beginning which quickly fades to an alcohol tingling. Quickly becomes flavourless with almost no finish. There is a caramel-like overtone throughout. No complexity at all. Like cotton candy it's gone in an instant. LCBO sold out of 50 cases in one day and the next weekend I saw a couple of forlorn Cape Bretoners searching the shelves for it. Cape Bretoners, like Scotsmen, never really leave home.  At $80 CDN it's way too expensive but I suspect the distillery could sell as much of this as they could make to Ontario's ex-patriots from The Cape.
Nominal score 65

27.  Redbreast 12 yo Pure Pot Still Irish Whiskey. 40% abv.
This dark coppery gold whiskey is not related at all to Clontarf. The nose is grassy and malty with a hint of skunk. Pleasant. The palate is malty and spicy with a hint of bitterness. It becomes slightly metallic in the middle. There is an evergreen pine needle start then a bit of a burn. OK but not great. The finish is long with a slight bitterness.  It leaves a pleasant malty taste and a slippery mouth feel.
Nominal score 67

28.  Ankara Malt Viski 5 yo. 43% abv.
This Turkish single malt is a real find. Lex Kraaijeveld of Celtic Malts
(http://www.celticmalts.com/journal-intro.htm) told me about it only a couple of hours before I left for Turkey. I searched for it for a week and finally got a bottle through a local, then discovered cases of it at the airport on my way out. Not fabulous, but a good solid whisky, it could do well in export. A medium golden colour, this malt has a spirity, estery, malty nose that is entirely lacking in smoke.
There is a sweetness though it's not heavy. Over time the nose develops a mint candy cane note along with malt vinegar that melts into dill pickle juice. It sounds bizarre, but it's really quite pleasant. Throughout there is a non-smoke muddiness. The palate is sweet and peppery. Though nothing does pepper like Talisker, this one is a bit hot and quite emphatic. The spirit was a flaw in the nose, but it does not emerge in the palate.  Some real warmth and sweetness develops in the middle as does lots of burning spice. It becomes grassy towards the end with perhaps a hint of fresh hay.
The medium to long finish is quite entertaining as it continues to change and develop until it disappears. It moves from pepper through grass, candy to mustiness then ends sweet and malty. I liked it so much I bought a second bottle then ended up giving it to my dad for his birthday. As $6.50 per bottle I doubt that Ankara will ever ever be displaced as my all-time best bang for the buck.
Only available in 'Turkey you say?  Pity!
Nominal score 74

29.  Tasmania's Old Hobart Pure single malt. (NAS.)  40% abv.
My wife picked this up for me in Australia and I find it, again, quite an education as it has new and unfamiliar notes. The nose is round (whatever that really means) with a musty, smokeless, medicinal smell. It seems just slightly off. There is a citrus note here but it is lost and turns to rotten fruit when nosed after the Sullivans Cove I sampled at the same time. (Love my wife!!).  I suspect the fruity notes originate in the same place as both whiskies come from the same distillery. This unique note led me initially to wonder if these were simply different expressions of the same whisky, but in-depth evaluation suggests otherwise. The element of rotten fruit persists in Old Hobart but is not found in SC. The palate starts with burnt sugar, tropical spice and a fair bit of hot but tasteless spice inside musty, fruity notes. The finish fades out into a mild fruitiness.
Nominal score 70

30.  Sullivans Cove Australian Premium Single Malt Whisky nas . 40% abv.
My favourite of the odd-balls. Nose has a very unique, very citrus waft. Maybe grapefruit with just a hint of an off-note.  No smoke at all, but so fruity and really quite delightful. Some strange tropical fruit notes. The citrus notes dominate the palate.  Initially there are flashes of fresh fruits and liqueurs which settle in on grapefruit with the same sweet/sour feelings at the back of the tongue. This ain't Scotch, but it's really quite pleasant.  It develops a mild spiciness then hints of peppermint and caramel.  The finish fades and the citrus disappears into a hint of malt. The glass decanter is probably the nicest on my shelf, but it is spoiled by having a plastic insert rather than traditional ground glass. Still it's a whisky and bottle I will display with pride.
Nominal score 77

That's it for now. Coming next update?
Well, I'll start with Glenfarclas 105 then on to new challenges.

Davin

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prE-pistle #16 - My scoring System
Date:  Sun, 24 Dec 2001

It's been a difficult struggle coming up with a meaningful scoring system.  Well, thanks to prodding from Johannes, discussions with the MM Team, and some common sense comments from Richard Block, my  reservations are now reconciled with the need to communicate simply. A personal scale of 50 to 100 for scoring malts is the result.

The basic criterion is enjoyability.  Does this malt give me extraordinary pleasure?  If yes, higher marks, if no, lower ones.  Thus an interesting malt like Glendronach 12yo, which many would score lower gets a decent 80 points from me as it offers something pleasant I've not tasted elsewhere.  Glenfiddich Special Reserve, on the other hand, is rather mediocre on my palate and so comes in at 63. In establishing scores, complexity is a desirable feature if one wants to contemplate a malt, but enjoyment need not come from contemplation alone.  It's the initial blast of smoke on a cold winter's night that makes Ardbeg 10 or Laphroaig 10 so enjoyable, but for Ardbeg 17yo or Laphroaig 15, the subtle, slowly emerging complexities bring new enjoyment through intrigue, development and anticipation.  So, complexity contributes to enjoyment, but is neither necessary nor sufficient to garner a high rating.

I've noticed my tendency to rate the sherried malts a bit lower than some others do, and the smoky Islays a bit higher.  Check out the other correspondents' opinions before you take mine for gospel.  Then taste a few whiskies and compare your own impressions to ours.  Are your tastes more like Craig's or Patrick's?  One thing I am confident about is that the combined matrix scores are a whole lot more predictive than those of any single whisky writer.

In validating my scores, I set out all my rated whiskies on a spread sheet, then did a lot of re-tastings to make sure they all made sense in relation to each other.  You will note that some of my  earlier scores have changed.  For example I had previously rated Talisker 10yo at 90. Now it's at 95.  I used to rate all my malts on a scale of 0 to 100. While preparing scores for the 50 to 100 matrix range I converted older scores by this simple formula:  old score divided by two then added to 50.  My Talisker score may now be a tad high, as it is right up there with Ardbeg 17yo, my current favourite.  Each malt has been tasted several times, though in many cases from a single bottle.  Lately I have taken to comparing minis (nips) with large bottles which has lead me to conclude that not all whiskies (Glenmorangie 10 for example) stay the same from one batch to the next.  In these cases I have given the benefit of the doubt, incorporating traits from each bottle.

It's not perfect, and scores will no doubt change from time to time, but it's a start and with seven people's opinions to choose from I hope this matrix will help new maltsters in making early selections, and more experienced ones in seeking out new experiences.

Davin
 

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prE-pistle #17 - 52 Challenge Complete!!
Date:  Sun, 30 Dec 2001

Well, it's December 29, 2001 and my 52 Challenge is complete.  Thanks to all the Malt Madness team, and to various correspondents who encouraged me and helped me to say I DID IT!!!  That's right, during 2001, I tasted, wrote notes for, and gave at least a nominal score to an average of one previously untasted malt per week.  Some of the malts I've tried have been uncommon, even esoteric.  Others have been so commonly available you must wonder why I hadn't tried them already.  Well, my local liquorist is the government, and 'though they are making huge improvements, the selection here in Ontario is still rather small.

Anyway here's the latest:

31. Glen Breton Rare (2001 release) nas 43% abv ODB
(vatted from 8 and 10yr casks according to Glenora)
This is a new vatting of the Glen Breton I reviewed last time.  Not a bad whisky and the only single malt currently in production in Canada.  It had some advantages, in that I tasted it at a very pleasant gathering at my newfound friend Johanna's place.  She had invited Adrian Nemerosky and  Marc Savard of An Quaich to taste some new and one very old Canadian blends, and then capped the night with the new version of Glen Breton.  Perhaps, as Marc suggested, it was the whiskies it followed, but to me this was a distinct improvement over the earlier Glen Breton I had tasted.  I only hope this is by design, and not just a fluke vatting.
I had been  particularly critical of the almost absent finish the first time I tasted Glen Breton, so I was pleased to taste a distinct improvement in this regard. The new packaging is an improvement as well, though it still uses the same generic bottle Guyana-based Demerara Distillers use for their 15 yo Special Reserve El Dorado rum.  El Dorado, by the by, has been a gold medal winner three or four times, and many claim it is indistinguishable from a fine cognac, which annoys me.  On my malt whisky scale it's a solid entry somewhere in the mid-sixties, no better.

Anyway, back to Glen Breton.
Colour:  Apple juice.
Nose:  Slightly citrus, maybe some cider vinegar, musty tropical fruit.
Reminiscent of Old Hobart.
Palate:  Initially hot then quickly fades to mud and cigarette ashes.
Malt and grain dust in the middle. Cafι au lait, lots of it. Second nip is sweeter, warm in the middle. A flash of skunk or animal smells. Spirited, slightly metallic.
Finish:  longer than the first time but still short. Some warmth and malty again.
Comments:  This is more complex than the first edition, starts spicy on the tongue then goes through a succession of quick changes.
Nominal score: 68.  At 99 bucks (Cdn) a pop this makes it a low entry on the bang for your buck list, and I notice it's not exactly walking out of the liquor stores on its own at that price.

32. Hart Brothers Single Speyside Malt, 10 yo 43% abv, distilled 1990.
Well if pride goes before a fall, this one tripped me.  I was so proud of myself recognizing Lochinadall as a Bruichladdich, that when LCBO brought in some Hart Brothers generic regional minis I thought I'd show my prowess by identifying them right off.  However, this bottle, if anything, gives credence to the stories that blenders will buy some Speyside" malts without regard to distillery for use in their fillings, for this is truly a generic malt.  It's whisky alright, and not a terrible malt either, but as Craig says about standard issue Scapas, this one is pretty hard to get excited about.  A good solid malt yes, I scored it at 73, but would not seek out the full-sized bottle.
Nose:  esters, alcohol, some malt, some nose prickle.  Dust and dill pickles.
Palate:  quite spicy, malty, sweet.  Warm in the middle but not particularly flavourful.  With water some fudge, toffee and grass emerge.  It has a medium-long malty finish.  A politicians malt, it knows how to make all the right noises without really saying anything.  Perhaps a base for home vatting?
Nominal score: 73.

33. Mortlach, James MacArthur's 10 yo 43% abv. Distilled 1984.
I claim Mortlach is one of my favourite distilleries, but they are rarely available in Canada, and I tend to buy more exotic malts when I travel, so there are few of them on my shelves.  It's no surprise then that this one reminded me so much of the Scottish Wildlife version I tasted a few months back.  So much so, in fact that I poured a dram of each to compare and they are very similar.  If you'll remember I found the SW just a tad disappointing, and this one too is a very dusty version of the Mortlach that first got me hooked on malts.
Colour: pale yellow, the SW version was even paler.
Nose:  dry, malty, dusty with distinct nose prickle.  An initial sherry influence develops into a pleasant if somewhat watered-down sweetness.  Both fruity and just slightly smoky.  With a bit of water the nose becomes fresh and light, but still dusty.
The palate is a surprise as it doesn't really reflect the nose.  At first it is sweet with much wood, oak and tobacco.  A slight and intermittent bitterness develops along with a cigar box essence, but not that pleasant tobacco/wood aroma that you find in a heavily peated malt.  The mouth feel is oily,  It's almost like the dregs of a much older and better whisky. Water much improves the palate.  It's sweeter, and a bitterness remains. Some esters and spiciness emerge to replace the now diminished wood and tobacco.  It has a very long and pleasant finish, which brings it up a point of two.  Some wood returns and a malty sweetness lingers.
Nominal score: 74.

34. Mortlach  12 yo 1988 Signatory  43% abv – natural colour
The ten year old version of this malt got me off the blends and I had quite anticipated this two years older version of the same distillate.  As I do like Mortlachs, I'm looking for one I can score in the 80's and was sure this would be it.  It's a pretty good whisky and the first taste sent me scurrying back to the store for a reserve bottle, but in the end, it just doesn't quite cross the line.  A thrilling athlete, but not quite the studied Olympian.
Colour:  natural and just slightly darker than the James MacArthur's version.
Nose:  All the predictive richness of the Mortlach I remember.  Apples, malt, dry fruit, slight nose prickle, cider in the background.  Very fragrant, burnt toast, dry grain.  A few drops of water bring out some solvents, blood, grain, smoke, wood and malt.  I tried to avoid saying blood, because I've heard Mortlach described as "meaty" and I'd hate to think I was influenced by what I'd read, but in reality there was a real hint of fresh beef.  (I don't think that's what they meant by meaty.)
Palate:  Quite sweet at first, then bitter then soapy, then sour – almost citrusy.  The soap kept it out of the 80's.  With water it improved dramatically.  It was sweet, oily, earthy, peaty and mildly spicy, but quite warming and almost chewy.  The finish was long and malty. Nominal score: 78.

35. Springbank 21 yo 46% abv
Nose:  floral, slight smokiness, warm and fragrant, some rich esters.  A hint of alcohol and some nose tingle.  Soap – carbolic.  Becomes smokier over time.  Cigar box – a touch of wood.  With water a hint of peppermint emerges.
Palate:  Sweet, astringent.  Some smoke.  A warming spiciness.  Some pepper towards the end.  A few drops of water bring out a sweet spiciness becoming very spicy.
Finish:  Long, malty and peppery.  The finish with water is a little shorter, quite malty and floral.  The empty glass smells woody. Nominal score: 87.

36. The Glenlivet 15 yo 40% abv G&M
I like the colour label.  It's pretty and it looks old.  I picked this one up in Hong Kong thinking I'd found old stock, and then saw dozens of them in London. The nose is waxy with a slight sourness.  Malty with a hint of used tea bags.  Adding water emphasizes the maltiness by weakening the rest of the nose.  A slight sourness remains along with faint new notes of fruit and flowers.
Palate:  Sweet and malty; warm but not too spicy.  Water opens up the palate and new flavours emerge.  It's spicier now and there's a barn taste – like a horse barn.  Diluted more the overwhelming flavour is spiciness with a tingle on the tongue.  It's flavourful at first, but quickly becomes just spice and you can taste the water. Undiluted the finish is long woody and slightly peppery with a slippery feel.  The diluted finish is malty and only medium in length. Empty glass:  Malt.
Not quite the 12 yo official bottling, this one rings in at 72 nominal points.

37. The Glenlivet 18 yo 43% abv ODB
A good solid malt and much more enjoyable than the 12 yo, which is also a good solid malt.
Nose:  Citric and minty, fresh cut grass, wood.  Starts off with less nose than the 12 yo which I had poured for comparison.  The nose develops a sour fruitiness, which becomes quite strong.  There's also wood and brown sugar in there.  With water the nose remains strong but becomes more malty with some flowers and tobacco.
Palate:  Quite sweet.  An initial spirit quickly becomes spice.  It gets nice and spicy and hot.  Very rich and full.  With water fruit and flowers come in.  A bit orangey becoming spicy.  It's now much better than the 12 yo.
Finish:  Not as long as the 12 yo, but more flavourful.  Malt and dry grain.
Empty glass:  Sour, citrus, malt.
Nominal score: 80.

38. An Cnoc 12 yo 40% abv ODB
Nose:  Dry, dusty and slightly medicinal.  Bandaids, mildly smoky becoming sweetish and a bit malty.  With water it's still dry, but maltier.
Palate:  Sweeter than the nose predicts. A hint of rosewater.
Spicy and tingly on the tongue – like a very watered-down Islay.
Adding water the palate is quite sweet and just slightly metallic.
It's like the sweetness of Islay but diluted and without all the smoke.
Finish:  Medium and becoming sweet.
No malt to write home about.  Nominal score: 70.

39. Aberlour a'bunadh Batch No 6 - 59.9% abv ODB
Nose:  Musty, sweet fruit.  Sherry, musty hay, wooden fruit boxes, honey.
With water it's still sweet and musty but there is a new alcohol aroma.
Peppermint and wood.  White glue stick and lots of esters.
Palate:  Sweet, woody, very rich, very strong and spicy.  Becomes thick and brown sugary.  Soft milk chocolate and fruity like jam.  The nose does not prepare you for how strong it is.  With water it's still sweet and a bit oily.  It's strong and spicy.  Peppermint on the tongue.  Warm in the middle. The finish is long and sweet with a hint of tobacco as it fades. Nominal score: 85.

40. Auchentoshen Three Wood 43% abv ODB sherry finished
(American Bourbon, Spanish Oloroso Sherry and Pedro Ximinez) 
Colour:  Dark and coppery; First impression:  fudge.
Nose:  Sweet, fudgy, grassy.  Just slightly more intense than the ten year old.  Slight mustiness, grassiness.  Becomes richer over time and sherry notes become isolated.  Adding water emphasizes the grassiness and the fudge.
Palate:  Sweet and fudgy, but with an over-riding bitterness, like tree bark.  Spicy.  You can taste the sherry when breathing out.  Warm and spicy in the middle.  With water the palate is richer with more sherry, but there is still a bitterness.  Warm with a slight tingle.
Finish:  Medium long.  The bitterness quickly fades.  There's not as much wood as I would have expected, but some oak does come out in the end.  The sherried, fudgy sweetness remains. I tasted this head to head with the 10 yo and didn't find either particularly great.  My 10 yo has been open for over a year, so maybe it has deteriorated, but I plan to re-evaluate it when I can get access to a fresh bottle and I suspect the score will drop. Three Wood nominal score: 73.

41. Glen Deveron 12 yo 43% abv ODB
The first of three average Highland malts, which, though almost identical in colour (golden) and very close in scores, differed considerably in nose, flavour and finish.
Nose:  Very strong apple juice, dry and almost sour, hay and grain dust.
With water more malt, grain and grass.
Palate:  Sweet.  Some immediate and very transient flashes of paint thinner, lawn spray and alcohol.  A bit slippery in the mouth.  Spirity then becomes grassy.  There is a pleasant essence of aquatic pl